Mejor tarde que nunca

Along the carretera there are frequently signs that say this: MEJOR TARDE QUE NUNCA.  In the U.S. the English translation, "better late than never," is mostly used sarcastically to mean, "Where the hell have you been???"  The meaning of these signs is however more literal -- drive more slowly and carefully or you may never arrive.   And slowly it has gone.  

We are now over 2000 miles into Mexico.  And it has taken us over two weeks to get here.  We have not driven every day but more than every other.  And the days have been LONG.  And we have almost always been late.  When I planned the itinerary, despite having driven the length of Mexico twice, I did not envision that 200-300 mile days could take up to 10 hours.  Topes, rain, the Bermuda Triangle/black hole phenomenon that happens to the carretera upon entering towns, topes, rain, topes, topes.  Did I mention topes?  And rain?  There was also the gust of wind that felled a tall, branchless pine tree one car length in front of us just as we found the disappearing carretera outside of Manzanillo.  But most of Mexico is behind us now.  There are some places where I would have liked to linger a little longer, or to someday revisit.  But traveling is better that way.  Though you may never get back there, better to leave wanting more. 

I didn't tell Gregg anything about Chiapas before we got here but it was not long after crossing the state line from Oaxaca that he said, "I think this is the most beautiful place we have seen so far."  Yes, that is what thought too.  I loved Chiapas on my last visit and so far it does not disappoint this time either.  We are in Chiapa de Corzo, for our second night at the comfortable, spa-like, Hotel Ceiba.  The town has fantastic artisan shopping, great food, and the Rio Grijalva.  Today we took a short boat ride to a small, family-owned, island.  We ate lunch and then buzzed around in the river.  Tomorrow we will take the launcha down river to view the majestic Canon Sumidero.  

Earlier in our journey, I asked Alex what she liked best so far.  Perhaps it was a day after a long drive or while we were staying in one of the less luxurious accomodations, but her reply was, "San Diego."  I chalked it up to the large pool, the 9-year old swim-mate, and the free flowing lemonade at the Loews Coronado, rather than general culture shock.  Tonight at dinner, thinking she may sense our more relaxed vibe, I asked her again.  She replied, "Still San Diego.  But I am waiting for PANAMA!  I think Panama is going to be really great!"   After two weeks of hearing, "Are we in Guatemala yet?" I found this interesting.  In two days, Alex, we will be in Guatemala yet.  And I think you're going to like it.

There are so many photos -- I need to figure a good way to share them.